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Revell 1/25 scale Shelby Series 1

Kit: No. 2534
Scale: 1/25
Manufacturer: Revell, 8601 Waukegan Road, Morton Grove, IL 60053-2295, 847-966-3500, www.revell-monogram.com
Price: $11.45
Comments: Injection-molded, 129 parts (4 vinyl tires), decals
Pros: Excellent clear parts, tires, and decals, fine body molding
Cons: Parts locations sometimes vague in instructions, some warped parts


Carroll Shelby is a name synonymous with powerful cars. Following his famous Cobras, Shelby Mustangs, and Chryslers, his latest creation is the Aurora-powered Series 1. Revell has brought us a fine kit of this exciting new car.

With a color photo of one of the rare completed cars on the box cover, I couldn't wait to get a look inside. The white, clear, and chrome-plated sprues are individually bagged. The six-color waterslide decals provide markings for two cars. Revell did well with the soft, rubberlike Goodyear P245/45ZR17 Eagle tires. The three-part wheels are held in place by clothespin style axles which cannot be posed. Revell's 13 clear parts are thin and distortion-free.
The assembly instruction booklet has a brief history of the car, a set of general modeling guidelines, instructions for decal application, and a paint color guide. The five-step exploded assembly drawings show the parts named and numbered to match the sprues.

Revell's assembly drawings are generally good, but I had to scratch my head at a couple of points. In step 1b, it's difficult to determine the angle at which the headers (part Nos. 34 and 35) sit on the cylinder heads (19 and 20). By the time you get to step 5e and install the exhaust system, it'll be too late to change the angle of the headers. You might want to hold off installing the headers until you can test fit them to the pipes.

I also couldn't figure out exactly what angle the right and left side louvers (parts 6-9 should sit in their openings. Even close examination of the photos in several magazines failed to show how those side louvers should fit.

Care must be taken when gluing the intake cover (46) down onto the top of the intake manifold. It must fit low enough to clear the hood. The position of the engine when installed in the frame in step 3A affects the location of the air filter which is attached to the intake cover. All of this, plus the ducts and the hose installed in step 3E, interfere with the installation of the intake cover.

Molded to the inside of the hood are hinges that must flex sufficiently to fit properly between the front frame rails without breaking off. The inside rear-view mirror's mounting stalk is too short, and there are no locators for the side-view mirrors on the doors.

I recommend that you assemble and paint the radiator with its intake cover and air box (from step 3E) before completing step 3A. The front portion of the frames in my kit were warped outward slightly. My radiator assembly would have fallen straight out of the bottom of the car had I waited until step 3E to mount those pieces. I don't know what went wrong, but the pipes leading from the radiator to the engine prevent the hood from closing flush with the body.

Revell supplies chrome-plated wheels, but they should have more of a cast-metal look; I gave mine a light coat of Floquil Old Silver. The cowl at the rear portion of the engine compartment should be painted black. The wheels lock in place in a positive manner, but they wobble on the axles.


I painted my model with Colors for Minatures PPG Centennial Silver BC37182B. The decals worked exactly as they should after an application of Solvaset. They were a pleasure to work with and the best I've seen from Revell.

Many thanks to FSM Associate Editor Elizabeth Lamb who dug up the reference material from a local Oldsmobile dealer, as well as painted and decalled the interior and the drive train. The 18 hours I spent painting the body and the rest of the details was a real pleasure.

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